How to Install a Pocket Door Easily. Use a wood- cutting blade to remove pieces of wallboard. Avoid cutting too deep. 3. Remove a section of drywall above the door to allow you to frame in a new header. 4. To remove the existing header, slice through the nails that fasten it to the studs. ![]() Door installation and repair service for entry doors and interior doors in the Dallas TX area. We offer hardware installation, weatherstripping, dog door, jamb repair. For many years, architects, interior designers and developers have been trying to produce a contemporary flush finish door jamb with clean lines and inconspicuous detail. · How to Install an Exterior Door. Exterior doors are an important security investment. Changing an exterior door can give your home an immediate upgrade. It. Cut a Length of Straight 2 X 4 to form the new header. MATERIALS: Door, Sterling 1. Series Pocket Door Kit, 2 x 4 lumber, drywall, drywall tape and compound, jamb kit, molding. Measure Once.. First, check that there's enough room in the wall - - you need a rough opening that's just over twice the width of the door. Then, determine if the wall is load- bearing or simply a nonstructural partition. Load- bearing walls typically are near the center of the house and run perpendicular to the floor joists (check joist direction in the basement). Doors in these walls will have headers - - usually laminated beams - - over their openings. Installing a pocket door in a load- bearing wall requires replacing the old header with a longer one. Creating the opening for the new header may require temporary ceiling support while the header goes in (you may want to consult a pro for this). Check to see if the wall contains wiring or plumbing. A wall with pipes isn't a good candidate for a pocket door. If you have attic and basement access, it should be easy to reroute electrical cables. Just keep in mind that all wire splices need to be made in a permanently accessible electrical box. Concealed wiring is easy to detect with an inexpensive, noncontact voltage sensor, such as the Live Wire GVD- 5. A from Gardner Bender (about $1. Prep and Framing. Doorjambs aren't nailed tight against the studs, but spaced with wooden shims. To remove the existing door, first pull off the molding, then slip a reciprocating saw blade into the gap and cut through the nails clustered around the shims. Use a metalcutting blade or a demolition blade that is rated for cutting wood with nails in it. With the nails clipped, tip the door from its opening. Make exploratory openings in the wall to check for any obstacles you may have missed. Tip the saw down for shallow cuts, and take the drywall out between the studs. Remove the drywall above the header, but stay a few inches below the ceiling to avoid extra finish work later. In our installation, we were able to leave the drywall in place on the inside. Use a reciprocating saw to remove the partition header and cut away the studs to make room for the pocket door's new framing. Nip the nails between the studs and the soleplate, then determine the height of the new header before cutting the stud tops to length. Advertisement - Continue Reading Below. Framing. The header height depends on whether you need a new soleplate. If the floor covering above the subfloor is minimal, you can secure the kit's split- stud brackets directly to the floor. We had a carpet and pad, so we used a 1 x 4 plate to avoid having to cut the door for it to clear the carpet. To determine the new header height for a kit like ours, figure the length of the new door, plus 3. Cut the stud tops to the length needed to support the new header at the correct height.
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